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Fabric makers turn to eco-friendly production

by Selin Arkut on Mar 21, 2009

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San Marco from Rubelli.
San Marco from Rubelli.

In an industry where sustainability is often overlooked, fabric manufacturers are putting eco-friendly production methods at the top of their agenda.

Fabrics have a personality too – whether striped, checked, patterned or textured, each has its own unique look and feel. As with any design element, they should be called upon to inject character into a space, and must integrate harmoniously into the overall design. The choice of fabrics is as important as the selection of floor coverings at the design stage, industry insiders insist.

The materials, processing methods, durability and robustness of a fabric vary widely.  “It is important that a designer considers the specific application that a textile is used in, and develops a list of criteria the textile has to meet. For example, depending on the application, light fastness or durability can be important, or maintenance considerations can predominate,” said Annette Schaich, vice president of marketing at Maharam, a New York-based specialist in textiles and wallcoverings.

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In a commercial context, attention must be paid to practical considerations. “When deciding for your own personal space, you are free to choose exactly what you like – these choices ultimately reflect your taste and personalities. Deciding on fabrics for a work environment, however, is driven more by what is practical, and how we want to be perceived by others,” said Lindsay Taylor, a designer of one-off fabrics and supplier to boutique projects.

A series of other factors will also come into play, added Gudrun Kloehn, international sales manager at Drapilux, a supplier of decorative fabrics, curtains and upholstery fabrics to the commercial property market.

“Customers look for fabrics which combine design, quality and function. Besides high quality and attractive designs, customers are interested in fabrics which are easy to care for and can be easily combined with others, whereby net curtains, curtains and other upholstery fabrics can be mixed and matched,” said Kloehn.

Available in a wide array of colours and materials, trends in fabric choice evolve rapidly. “At present, the natural look is the latest trend. By this I mean fabrics that use either linen or silk, as opposed to synthetic. Ultimately, customers drive these trends. It’s all down to what they want,” commented Mohd Moutaz, general manager, fabric division, Al Aqili Furnishings.

According to Nicolò Favaretto Rubelli, CEO of the Rubelli Group, wavy lines, big floral patterns, glittering accents and “textures with relief”are also proving popular with buyers. The company specialises in top-end furnishing fabrics, particularly brocade, damask, velvet, silk and lampas.

“A leader in Italy and ranked high in the world, the Rubelli Group sets trends in the world of textile design. Other brands, in addition, naturally, to Rubelli itself, are also part of the group, including the Roman brand Bises, the Florentine Lisio, the French company Dominique Kieffer and finally, the US company Donghia,” said Rubelli.

Other features of a fabric will also determine its applicability in a commercial space, Kloehn pointed out. “Additional fabric functions, such as the minimisation of odours, act as a trend to achieve greater home comfort.
 

“An example of this is Drapilux Air, a fabric which, through catalytic conversion of air contaminants and unpleasant odours, provides a pleasant indoor climate,” she added.

While Taylor claims to be no great believer in trends, aiming instead to create timeless designs which offer a natural, contemporary feel, there is one fad that she is definitely keeping on top of. “I want to take the time necessary to make beautiful things that will be just as desirable in five years as they were the day they were made. That said, the one big trend that I do believe in is the ‘green’ trend,” she said.

“Finally, the consumer is beginning to sit up and ask questions: how come this dress is so cheap? Why is my wardrobe full of badly made items that I never wear? No matter what the fabrics use is, the consumer always wants their products to last and wants to be sure that it has come from an ethical and sustainable source. Thus we are seeing the use of more natural fibres: wool, silk, organic cotton, bamboo, soy and hemp,” she added.

A sustainable era
The textile industry has not been immune to the green craze, but for fabrics to achieve a sustainable stamp of approval, “environmentally-friendly production, along with simultaneous preservation of functionality and high durability, is in order,” said Schaich.




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