A love of luxury

Chris Dewar-Dixon.
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You work with some of the most recognised luxury brands in the world. Are there any inherent challenges involved in working at this end of the market?

Individuality. This level of the market has to constantly reinvent and, at the same time, maintain. Service is essential; products and all brand experiences must be totally in sync with the brand ethos. This level of the market is constantly analysed and interpreted by the middle market, so they must always stay one step ahead.

You’ve worked on a number of projects in the Middle East. Have you come across any key challenges that are particular to this region?

The challenges in the Middle East are not really any different from taking brands to international audiences all around the world. It is about creating something new and exciting within the limits of your design environment.

We have found that an element of surprise, of going against the grain, within the limits of cultural sensitivity and taste, has been key to the success of a new space.  Don’t be afraid to experiment, to take a risk, to try something new.

Limited impressions of cultures can often limit our designs – we have found people surprising in their taste and love of the new all over the world, from the Middle East to China. The Middle East has been one of the most surprising places in terms of the complexities and variations of taste and the extent to which society loves and understands fashion and design. Our Naked department store in Istanbul, for example, completely destroyed stereotypes about taste and cultural constraints.

To what extent do you try and take on the cultural relevance of the destination that you are working in? How did this manifest itself in the new Mamas and Papas store at Dubai Mall?

Many global brands make use of their special national characteristics wherever they go and this has been core to their success. IKEA is Swedish through and through – from their design ethic to the meatballs that are served in the canteen. Paul Smith is British tailoring with a hint of the British eccentric.

Its stores echo the traditional and eccentric feel of its Floral Street home – wood panelling, floral designs and the odd unexpected display items such as robots, a story book or the odd shoe. Muji is Japanese minimalism coupled with good design. Its name even means ‘no brand’. It is seen as cheap and cheerful in Japan but has a different positioning in the UK.

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These brands build in the aspects of their country that are already associated with them around the world. They play up to stereotype but leave the negatives behind. They have managed to export a distinctly national brand that is relevant to an international market.

In terms of opening a new space in Dubai, design needs to take into account how the country of origin is perceived and how it sees itself. For me, Dubai is about the new, the decadent, the inspirational, and about rebirth.

You are able to get away with a certain decadence and innovation that you would not get away with elsewhere.

However, the crux of good design is maintaining a common denominator that also brings about a sense of recognition and safety.

How did your relationship with the Mamas and Papas brand come about?

From an interview with the two owners. They asked that I speak about their brand and I was very honest. Since then we have formed a very strong bond. A relationship that endures through rough and smooth is one where the benefits are tremendous. Trust is the key.

How should brands be responding to the current financial crisis?

We have found that companies that invest in their brand and retail experience sustain their sales and come out of a recession stronger than the competition. The reason is simple – it reinforces core values that are familiar and reassuring. The world that customers step into feels comfortable and safe, but it is also aspirational and makes them feel like they are living a better life.

It connects with customers, making them more receptive to making a purchase. It adds further distance between your products and those of your competitors. In addition, it gives further reasons why people should buy from you, and it creates something that is very difficult to copy.

In a recession, the way people look at their money changes, as does their approach to spending it. Brands become more important to consumers when times are hard – they look to them for reassurance and for consistency. This is particularly true of premium brands.

People want to feel that their hard earned money is going towards something valuable, something that’s high quality and that will be long lasting.

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